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Roaming Kiwi

Busted knee!

One of the things that parents repeatedly tell their kids is “do up your shoelaces, or you will trip on them and hurt yourself”. Well… on Thursday morning we got up bright and early in order to catch the sunrise on Dune 45, and I stupidly popped my boots on for the shuffle across the car park to the toilets, neglecting to do up my laces.  The laces on my right boot caught in the hooks on the left boot, and I hit the ground hard – VERY hard, point of impact being my right knee.  I am not light, and the carpark was rocky.

After a few minutes of exchanging verbal pleasantries with the carpark, I managed to get back onto my feet and hobble around – no major damage done as I was mobile.  We packed up camp and drove to the Dune, Margaret climbed up to get the photos as I was still very sore.

Fast forward a few hours of (extremely) rough driving and we got to the bakery at Solitaire (excellent Apple Pie, btw) – I climbed out of the car, and within a few seconds my knee had tripled in size and really started hurting.  By harnessing the powers of foul language I got back into the truck and drove on to Walvis Bay (driving is actually OK – its the climbing in and out, and bending the leg into position to use the pedals that is the problem).

At the campground in Walvis Bay I thought things were improving – camp set up (mostly by Margaret) and beer consumed – when all of a sudden it flared up again.  Off to Welwitschia Hospital I went in a taxi (The people here are fantastic – reception, nurses, radiographer and doc – apparently most tourists are sensible enough to have better reasons for a visit, like quad bike crashes).  After a few hours we had a diagnosis of an enormous haematoma, plus bleeding in the joint itself – hopefully no damage to meniscus etc, but time will tell.  The good news, no break, chips or cracks which was initially feared pre X-ray.

So… to wrap up, it’s now the next day, swelling has gone down a bit and the bruising is coming out nicely, I am on crutches, bandaged up and we are chilling out in Walvis Bay for a few days before proceeding north.

morning after

The campsite has an excellent playground, and is close to the beach (featuring both flamingos and pelicans). The beer is still cold.

Beautiful Gate Lesotho

Beautiful Gate Lesotho

If you are ever going to share a post of ours, share this one.

Lesotho surprised us. We knew it was mountainous, but we didn’t expect how mountainous.  We went up and down, and up and down, all generally between 1,000m and 3,400m above sea level. The cosmos flowers bloomed pink and white, men wrapped in blankets and wearing gumboots and balaclavas waved at us, kids asked for sweets on their walk to school, (right next to a major road – no parents in sight) and it was simply beautiful.

However what surprised us most was visiting Beautiful Gate Lesotho. We were dirty, dusty and tired after much (stressful, old landy related) time on the road, and Lindiwe and Peter welcomed us like old friends. They gave us accomodation with comfortable beds and amazing showers.

Beautiful Gate is an orphanage, currently looking after approximately 70 children.  It is unique, most countries don’t run orphanages, as kids are put straight into foster care. However Lesotho does not have this infrastructure.   A third of the kids have HIV, and many fall behind their developmental milestones.

They are divided into three houses: Khotso, meaning peace. Pula meaning rain, and Nala meaning prosperity. Lindiwe gave us a tour and we were blown away by the size, the soft play rooms, the competent medical facility, the outside playground and the sympathetic memorial to children who have passed away.

Most touching of all,was the children singing to us, then coming for high fives. My children were shocked that they didn’t own their own clothes, and had no toys to call their own. But yet the children were the happiest kids we had ever met.

We were inspired by all of the people that we met there.  Eleanor interviewed two of the long term volunteers, Jennie and Marissa. She was so inspired that she wrote a letter to Prince Harry.

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We don’t normally ask for donations for charitable causes, but should you have any spare cash Beautiful Gate is completely worthy.  We personally saw that the money is put to good use, no hint of sparkly new Land Cruisers being badly driven over mountain passes (ahem, Red Cross and World Vision…). So as you get stuck into your Easter eggs, click the link below.  Every pound/dollar/rand/whatever really does help.

www.givengain.com/c/bgl/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kit review – Kuma Wifi Booster

We have had this bolted onto the Taniwha for a while now, and tonight it is really earning its keep.  We are camped about 600m from the lodge in bad weather, and without the booster we get precisely 0% link quality (i.e. absolutely nothing).  With our super high gain antenna, we not only get to grow extra heads on the kids but we also get 97% strength, with a 65Mb/s link speed.  Happy days…  When we flick the magic Wifi switch on the dash, and plug in the antenna (taking care to point it in the general direction of the hotspot – it is directional) we can then log into the Taniwha network, configure the un/pw for the hotspot, and we are good to go.  Laptop, tablets, phones, just like at home…  a marvellous bit of kit (and it is 12v too, so we have it hardwired in, a real bonus). Link here if anyone is in the market.

The Taniwha is on strike!

flatbed

So… I write this sitting on the patio of the (very long-suffering) Leanne and Trevor in Durban, South Africa. Yes, the Taniwha is on strike and requiring shiny gifts. It’s a bit of a saga, but the condensed version is as follows:

In Morocco we developed a leak in one of the seams in the radiator – inconvenient, but not a show stopper. We sourced a bottle of stop leak in Zagora, topped up the coolant and the problem went away for a while (in hindsight, I suspect this leak was caused by the beginnings of pressure buildup in the system, but I wrote it off as a casualty of the serious jarring the vehicle was being subjected to in the desert). We returned to the UK, and all was well.

During my pre-shipping checks in Britain I discovered the coolant was getting low again – maybe 750ml down – and with pressure (gas) in the reservoir. At this stage I added “head gasket” to the list of jobs to attend to in Durban, before heading out into the continent.

On arrival in Durban, I booked the Taniwha into a local specialist to work through the list of jobs (quite a few actually). They identified the radiator leak and had it properly repaired, test drove the truck and all appeared well – the diagnosis being air entering the system through the radiator leak, and not actually a head gasket issue after all. We loaded the truck up and headed out into Africa… making it roughly 30km before we properly overheated. After a sufficient cooling off period, I refilled the coolant from our water tank and limped back to Durban at tickover (stopping three times to cool off, and adding over 16 litres of water all up).

Given that the head has been properly cooked, and the amount of remote travel we will be doing, I have made the call to replace the head with a new one (AMC, from Spain – improved design, thicker injector pockets etc) – this was being shipped overnight from Johannesburg and “should” be arriving today… fingers crossed the Taniwha accepts this truly magnificent gift and resumes normal duties! We are now both several weeks behind schedule and seriously imposing on friends, not a happy combination at all.  A truly appalling run of luck, we are avoiding casinos for the foreseeable future.

solarThe unscheduled layover in Durban has given me some time to investigate a charging issue detected in Morocco with our Solar solution – we noticed a sharp decrease in capabilities and had to plug into mains far more often than anticipated in a desert country. Afer opening up the back of the panels and testing with a multimeter, it appears that three out of four panels were completely dead, with the final panel providing around 0.4 amps (out of a “normal” 4.0). All is explained… Unfortunately the manufacturer of the panels has no African presence, and sending the panels back to Oz for analysis and replacement back to us here is simply out of the question, so we have resorted to replacing the system with a local South African brand. We have also bonded a 110w rigid panel to a sheet of marine ply, which we will lash on top of our roof load to provide a trickle charge when we are parked up but unable to lay out our ground panels. This panel can also be plugged in alongside the ground panels when camped. Total capacity, 320 watts. Testing here in the garden in full sun gives us around 14 amps/hr back to the batteries, a good result. After running both fridges and the freezer overnight, we were back to 100% by lunchtime on solar alone, so problem solved…

Cyclone Idai has scuppered our plans of doing Africa in a loop – we had intended on heading up through Mozambique and Tanzania, keeping as close to the coast as possible before heading inland at Kenya and up into Ethiopia and Sudan. We then intended to turn around at Khartoum and head back down the center of the continent, through Uganda/Rwanda etc before looping through Namibia and Botswana and back into South Africa at the end of the year. Obviously this is no longer a viable approach… and given the timings of wet seasons simply reversing the loop doesn’t work either.  Plan B is to head to Namibia, visit around half of it, then cross into Zambia then Tanzania, and work north from there, returning again via Namibia in October (will visit Botswana after this – a rough figure of 8 route). Clearly this plan will fall apart and be reworked as we go along…